VLADIMIR - The "Golden Gate" of its ancient fortifications still stands in this one-time capital of Russia. Some of the few remaining frescoes by Andrei Rublev decorate the interior of Vladimir's Dormition Cathedral and intricately carved bas-relief stone figures cover the exterior of St.Dimitrii's. Nearby, the graceful 12th-century white limestone Church of the Protection of the Theotokos soars above an oxbow of the River Nerl.

SUZDAL - The town rises up out of the fertile black soil revealing a cluster of over 40 surviving churches and monasteries dating back to medieval times. A sizeable icon collection is to be found in the Kremlin museum and ancient bronze doors with Biblical scenes etched in gold grace the opening into the Kremlin Cathedral of the Nativity of the Theotokos. A 17th-century atmosphere is maintained by the ban on multi-storied buildings within the town.